The Nile

The Nile Ethiopian Restaurant and Cafe on Laurel St occupies a special space in our hearts and stomachs, and it's only fitting that it should be the first place we review. The Nile is located in the space that used to be known to all of us old hipsters as the Hole in the Wall. I spent a lot of time enjoying music there, and K and I have now spent many happy hours perched on their tall barstools. We are creatures of habit, and almost always start our meal with a Ginger Martini.

Large, pink, cold and gingery. You can't ask for more. There are other intriguing cocktails on the drink menu, but we haven't been lured away from these yet. A Ginger Martini always goes best with a smoke, and the deal at the Nile, is smoking only at the bar, and only if no one is occupying either of the two small tables on the near side of the wall.

If you've never had the experience of Ethiopian food, go now. Immediately. The food is exotic and delicious- based largely on garlic, ginger, onions, red chili spices. And the best part is, no silverware. That's right, you eat with your hands. The Ethiopians make a spongy, thin, flat sourdough bread called Injera that diners use to scoop up their food. It's a lot of fun, and it's a great way to get just the right mix of flavors in every bite. People eat communally in this style, and it's a unique experience.

As an appetizer K usually orders the Nile Salad- greens and tomatoes, with the Ethiopian farmer's cheese and a tangy, vinagery dressing over Injera. It's always fresh and good, and a refreshing twist on the idea of a salad.

I tend to go for either the Timatim Fitfit or the Ayib Tikl. The Timatim is almost like a pico de gallo- chopped tomatoes, onions and jalapenos, but with a more acid lemony bite, and with injera pieces soaking up the dressing. The Ayib Tikl is a generous plate of small cheese rolls- Injera wrapped around soft, spicy cheese. I've noticed sometimes the cheese has more heat than others, but it's always good, and with all these apps priced at under $7, it's hard to go wrong.

Now for the guilty part of this review. In all fairness, the Nile serves a huge variety of entrees, for both vegetarians and meat eaters. There's a variety of "wat" or thick saucy stews; "tibs" which are shrimp or strips of meat sauteed or pan fried with spices, onions and peppers; and even fantastic variety platters, where you can get tastes of several dishes.

We always order the same thing. Just because it's so good. I've had the chicken and lamb dishes before, and several rounds of the sampler plates. Everything I have gotten is always delicious, but nothing beats our favorite. The object of our affection is the Shiro Wat, a chickpea flour based vegetarian dish. It looks like an orangy yellow pile of paste, and tastes like heaven. I hesitate to even write about it, because I harbor fears that if everyone else discovers it, there will be a run on it, and there won't be enough for us.

As far as desserts, the baklava is pretty good, but we're usually too full to eat it.
The best part about eating at the Nile is the complete experience, the vibe, and the folks who own and run this great little place. We always feel at home. Literally. All sorts of people frequent the restaurant, and the clientele is a cross section of straight and gay, students and professional people. I feel comfortable with my arm around my woman, and comfortable asking for my martini "extra- gingery."

As far as service, the Nile gets a "10." from us. One of my pet peeves is restaurants that bring your food so quickly, that your appetizer is getting cold, and pushed off the table by your entree. I know this might sound fussy, but when I eat out, I like to enjoy my food at my leisure. I like to have a cigarette in between my courses. I don't like to feel like I'm being rushed out the door either. They don't do that here. Our server usually gauges the timing perfectly, and asks if he's not sure.

The Nile warrants at least a monthly visit, and we hope it stays open in Richmond for a very long time.

The Nile Ethiopian Restaurant and Cafe
309 Laurel St.
(804) 225-5544